Wednesday, 3 October 2012

Why Is Dry Air A Problem?

When the outside temperature falls below the inside temperature, the cold and moist air that enters a heated building becomes hot and dry.

This happens due to an incident by which balance is established between the moisture in the objects inside the building and in the air that these are in contact with.

The reduction in the moisture in the air may cause well known problems, such as:
  • dryness of the upper airways;
  • cracks in wooden structures;
  • electrostatic discharges.

Air-conditioning or refrigeration systems may also cause an increase in the dryness of the air, as they cool the air below its dew point, remove moisture (dehumidification) and subsequently reheat the air.

dew point: this is the temperature that air must reach (while maintaining a constant pressure and humidity) for the moisture to condense (saturation).

dehumidification: process by which the moisture in the air can be decreased or removed


By adding a commercial humidifier to the system, this problem can be overcome quite simply.  Either add the steam produced by the humidifier to the air handling system, or install the humidifier with a fan distribution unit directly in to the room that needs the extra humidity - problem solved.



Tuesday, 21 August 2012

Why Humidity Is Key To Bikram Yoga


The idea behind the unique style of hot yoga is to imitate the conditions in Calcutta, Indian, where it was first launched more than 40 years ago by renowned yoga master, Bikram Choudhury.

Bikram Choudhury

The difference between a room that just feels a little warm or a room that feels sweltering is the level of humidity. The more humidity there is in a space the more difficult it is for a person to remove heat from their body simply from evaporatively sweating.

A hot yoga room is kept at 40˚C and at a minimum of 40% humidity. This helps students to start sweating right away, sweating out the toxins in their body and stimulating their organs, glands and nerves. The hot, humid temperatures are also key in helping to relax the muscles so students can stretch without worrying about injuries. Without humidity the room can be very unpleasant. Your eyes and your skin can experience dryness and you don’t sweat in the same way. 

When supplying equipment for a hot yoga studio we recommend infrared heating, humidity, and airflow as these three combined offer a more comfortable environment rather than just a hot environment. 

If you're standing in a light breeze, even in a hot humid room, you can let your body cool itself naturally through sweating, through evaporation. The higher the humidity level, the less evaporative cooling you will feel because once the air becomes saturated with moisture it doesn't evaporate sweat from your body as quickly.

Usually the most uncomfortable experience in a hot yoga room is when you sweat, drip then cool. If you're sweating just to drip then cool, its can often leads to symptoms of heat stroke. You need to be very careful if you're going to heat a room and humidify it, if you find that students are not getting through class and they're laying down or getting the chills, then you need more airflow in the system. This can be achieved as simply as installing a few cross flow ventilation fans and should give relief straight away.

Wednesday, 1 August 2012

HumiSteam Operation

Carel humiSteam basic Operation Video


Carel have produced a video for the operation of the new humiSteam basic that we thought may be of interest.




Any questions please contact us.



Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Attention All Air Con Installers, Facilities Managers


 CAREL humiSteam Installation


We thought it would be a good idea to share this cracking video from CAREL - a simple, easy to follow installation guide for the CAREL humiSteam humidifier.

Any questions?  Do get in touch.


(We digg the background music too!)

http://humidifiers-uk.com


Friday, 20 July 2012

Replacing A Carel HumiSteam Humidifier Cylinder

 

Easy guide to replacing your humiSteam cylinder




Important: The cylinder must only be replaced by qualified personnel, and with the humidifier unplugged from the power supply.
In normal conditions, the disposable cylinders should be replaced after one year (or 2500 hours of operation, if cleaned periodically), whilst the cleanable cylinders last 5 years (or 10,000 hours of operation, if cleaned periodically). They must be replaced immediately – even before the specified intervals – if any anomalies occur. For example, when the lime scale inside the cylinder prevents the correct flow of electric current. 

Replacement Procedure
  • Firstly the humidifier needs to be turned off using the rocker switch on the front of the humidifier (0 = Off) and as a safety procedure the mains disconnect switch on the power supply need to be open;

  • The cylinder then needs to be drained of water. To do this mechanically you need to make sure the humidifier is not powered and then activate the mechanical drain device under the cylinder (see figure below);

  • Wait for the humidifer and cylinder to cool down and then disconnect the electrical cables and steam hose from the cylinder;
  • Release the cylinder from the locking device and then lift it to remove it;

  • Make sure the model and the power supply of the new cylinder corresponds to the rated data and then insert and fasten the new cylinder;

  • Reconnect the electrical cables and steam hose to the new cylinder and replace the humidifier cover;

  • Close the mains disconnect switch on the power supply and turn on the humidifier using the rocker switch on the front of the humidifier (1 = On);
  • The cylinder operating hour counter now needs to be reset and the new cylinder flushed;
  • To do this press the PRG button on the main screen to access the main menu;

  • Using the down arrow scroll to the Maintenace Menu and press enter to access it;

  • Press enter again and then use the up or down arrows to enter the password 77;

  • Press enter to confirm and access the Maintenance Menu;
  • Using the down arrow scroll to "4. Change cylinder" and press enter to access;

  • Complete the following procedures;



















Thursday, 21 June 2012

Check-list For Installing A Steam Humidifier

Choosing A New Steam Humidifier:  12 Point Check-list 



  1. You are going to need to know the geographical area of where the unit is to be installed, mainly because different areas of the UK specifically have different average temperatures and levels of relative humidity in the atmosphere.  So, installation of a steam humidifier in London compared to Leeds will have different implications and may need a larger more powerful unit to supply the right level of steam.
  2. You will also need to know the level of humidity required for the room that is to be humidified - this will differ from application to application - for example, a food ripening facility will need a different level of humidity to a proofing workshop.
  3. Make sure there is ample power supply to power the unit as some of the CAREL steam humidifiers we supply can draw up to 40, 50 or even 90kW of power on full steam.
  4. Is there three phase or single phase power available?  Check with your facilicites manager or local electrician if you are unsure, and ask for the available power. This wil save a lot of headaches wen it comes to running the steam humidifier and will help to avoid overloading the power board.
  5. Is the steam humidifier going to be mounted on the wall?  If so, where will it be mounted and can it be mounted so that it is out of reach of the general  public? other factory machinery? but accessable enough for workers to operate and make changes to the settings?
  6. Will the steam need to be directed in to the room or into a duct?  If the intenton is to add humiditty directly in to the room in question, you will need to select a fan distribution unit that will sit on the top of the steam humidifier or moutned above the humidfier with steam hose connecting the fan distibutor to the top of the humidifier cylinder.
  7. If the steam is to be directed into the air handling unit, as part of the air conditioning system, you will need to know air flow speeds and volumes so that a calculation can be made as to how much humity needs to be produced to achieve the required humidity level.
  8. In terms of kg/h how much humidity losses (absorbtion) is there likely to be.  For example, if the humidity is being applied to an office there will be carpet, people, plants etc that will absorb some humidity from the atmosphere. If however, the humidity is being applied to a warehouse with hard surfaces, no boxes, and minimal levels of absorbent surfaces , there will be very little in terms of humidity losses.
  9. Whilst on the subject on of humidity losses, we calcuilate that the average number of air changes (total volume of air changing in the room from outside to inside) is 3 times per hour.  So, if you have an area that is susceptable to high levels of infiltration (such as windows open all day, or poor insulation) you may have to double the number of air changes to allow for the amount of extra humidity that needs to be suppllied in to the room.  
  10. Then we move on to the type of controls that you will need.  Would you like the unit to operate on a simple on/off mode so that when the level of relative humdirty readhces the set point, it ill turn off.  When the relative humidty then drops to say 5% below the set point, it will fire back up, boil the water and produce enough steam to add humidity to the room to bring it back up to the oringinal set-point of, for example, 60%.  Or, you can select a control package that will modulate the power of the humdifier to obtain a more accurate control over the relative humidity in the room.  For example, you can set the CAREL humidifier controls so that the humidifier is always running at a lower level, producing low levels of steam on a more constant basis.  The advantage of using this type of system is that less energy is used to heat the water back up and to produce enough steam to maintain the relative humidity in the room, plus it means the electrodes are placed under less stress meaning less maintenance costs.
  11. In terms of servicing and spares, it is best practice to check the humidifier at least once a year using a qualified engineer or air conditioning contractor, asking him to perform electrical connections test, to clean the unit and service it to mainatin the smooth running of the unit, and to avoid any serious technical issues.
  12. Typically, the humidifier cylinders will need repacing on a regular basis - after a while limescale will build up on the electrodes and while they can be cleaned, you may find that they have worn down after hours of usage and need replacing completely.  The cylinders are easy to replace, just remove the old bottle, pop in the new humidifiier bottle, reconnect, and start the humidifeir running again.
Euro Controls UK Ltd supply the latest in steam humidifier technology.  Contact us for a quotation.



Monday, 18 June 2012

How does steam humidification work?

Steam humidifiers have been in use for decades and steam humidification can be likened to boiling a kettle and directing the flow of the steam that comes out of the bottle, via a special pipe network in to the room or into the duct - whichever has been specified.

The electrodes that sit within the humidifier cylinder are powered by the mains electricity supply, and depending on the type of humidifier (there are two different types - electrode steam and resistive steam)  will either heat the water or will cause the ions within the water to perform a dance between the electrodes and ultimately heat the water to provide the needed amount of steam.

The steam is delivered into the space using a steam hose - a specially manufactured type of spring loaded hose pipe that is heat resistant and flexible to allow for proper insertion into the the duct or to the room.  When mounting the hose, it is important to angle the hose at least 5 degrees to allow for any condensate build up to drop back down into the humidifier and to stop the hose from blocking up the steam hose.

Naturally, when there is a build up of condensate in the hose, it can cause a blockage for the steam to travel up and out of the hose and will eventually lead to problems with controlling the humidity being released, and may make the humidifier work harder than it needs to - wasting energy in the process.  Secondary to this of course is the problems with stagnant water building up as a result of the condensate resting in once place (inside the hose) - this is not good from a health and safety perspective.



CAREL Fan Distributor
When installing the steam humidifier, most installers will use a 'fan distributor' of some sort that comes built with small electric fans to blow the steam out in to the room, helping to gain as much coverage of the space as possible.  Occasionally, the fans need to be replaced, and also a little tweaking of the angle of the fan distributor is need to avoid the spitting of large droplets of water.  The water droplets will naturally be hot, so to be aware of this is necessary when installing the fan distributor.




CAREL Steam Lance
The alternative is to use a sparge pipe that will go directly in to the air handling unit to supply the humidified air into the air conditioning system.







Typically the humidifier will come with a controller that, using a humidity probe will measure the room relative humidity, and can moderate the humidification process within the humidifier to produce enough steam for the room.  As an example, a food ripening processing room will require set temperatures and humidity levels in order to produce the most effective conditions for the ripening.  When setting up the steam humidifier, the installer can set the parameters to read the temperature and relative humidity within the room and adjust the humidifier accordingly.  The electronic control board of the humidifier wil use a  number of processes to control the level of humidity being produced and will provide a live read out of the current state of the room in question.

We use CAREL selection software to determine the size of the humidifier needed for a particular application.  All a customer needs to do is supply us with the size of the room, type of room, temperature, desired humidity level, and moisture losses and various other measurements and we will work out the best type of steam humidifier to be used in the room.

CAREL heaterSteam



We consider CAREL humidifiers the best in the market for four main reasons:



  • Ease of use
  • Cost effective
  • Accurate control of relative humidity
  • Reliable



We have partnered with CAREL for many years, and so we have extensive experience n installing steam humidifiers into commercial, domestic and industrial environments.  


Projects include print houses, food ripening plants, museums, factories, offices, manufacturing plants, luxury houses and many more. 





Thursday, 7 June 2012

CAREL humiSonic humidifier - product launch

CAREL have released another high quality humidifier, that uses the piezoelectric process of humidification to produce microscopic droplets of water without having to use heating elements.  The humidifier has been designed to fit within fan coils, and will tuck neatly into fan coil heaters without having to buy a whole new fan coil unit.

The humiSonic is perfect for fan coil manufacturers looking for that extra specification, who want to add humidification control within the fan coil, increasing market price of the fan coil and thus increasing profits, and value to the customer.

This really is exciting news for fan coil manufacturers, and Euro Controls UK Ltd are once again proud to be a part of the ongoing innovation from CAREL.

Contact us for more information, or request a brochure and manual on the CAREL humiSonic humidifier.

CAREL logo

Euro Controls UK Ltd